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I recently bought 6 spools of Gutterman topstitching thread, and the “threads” just unravel before you can even get it through the needle!! The smaller the number, the heavier the thread. The shank creates a neat stitch pattern on elastic, which makes it a good needle for stretchy fabrics. The reason vintage polyester is more difficult than modern polyesters is because the staple fibers used to make the yarn that made the fabric was thicker than modern micro-denier polyester fibers. Most sewing machine needles are labeled in both the American system, from 8 to 19, and the European system, from 60 to 120, written on the package as 16/100 or 18/110. Spandex tends to shrink the first time you wash it- avoid the risk of ending up with a 2-sizes too-small garment by washing on a cool wash before you start cutting out the pieces. The eye of the needle is sized for general sewing threads such as all-purpose polyester and 50-weight cotton.. Large needle sizes – 100/16 and 120/18 – These are for heavyweight, tough fabrics, like thick leather, heavyweight canvas, and dense upholstery fabrics. If you’re sewing with satin polyester, you may find yourself having a hard time keeping it from puckering. Needles should be changed every 1-3 garments or immediately after accidentally hitting a pin. While polyester isn’t the easiest of fabrics to sew, prepping the material properly before you begin can remove a lot of the hardship. Can you Sew Cotton and Polyester Together? The joy of polyester is that it has some stretch – while this may make it very accommodating after a big lunch, it does mean you have to adopt a slightly different approach to hemming to what you may be used to. There are different sizes and types of needles for different types of fabric. Worn-out needles have nicks and protrusions that can snag small fibers in the polyester and cause tearing and puckering. For the same reason, avoid letting the fabric drape over the edge of your work surface. Perfect for sail and canvaswork, polyester thread has high strength and stretch control, stability in sunlight (UVR) and resistance to needle heat, abrasion, saltwater and mildew. Use small, narrow zigzag stitches to sew the seam. If you are having constant thread breakage issues and you have new needles and everything else is fine, then consider the thread. The eye of the needle is sized for general sewing threads such as all-purpose polyester and 50-weight cotton.. Large needle sizes – 100/16 and 120/18 – These are for heavyweight, tough fabrics, like thick leather, heavyweight canvas, and dense upholstery fabrics. While using polyester thread for hand sewing is unproblematic enough, there are a few little details to be aware of when using it for machine sewing. If you use a 70/10 needle to sew two pieces of denim, chances are that needle will be out of service very quickly. Similarly, cotton thread won’t be strong enough to take on the challenge of a polyester fabric. Pull the torn edge together and pin the piece of fabric to the garment. Using a zigzag or overlock stitch, sew the raw edge of the fabric to stop it from stretching or fraying. Polyester is made up of small fibers that can snag and tear easily: avoid causing any damage by eschewing worn out or used needles for a fresh one. For lightweight and sheer fabrics consider using 70-weight cotton or very fine polyester thread. If any creases can’t be removed with ironing, remove the offending section before going any further. & Sunbrella V-92 F 90 14.2 lb. Thicker fabrics, such as coat woolens, drapery fabric and fake fur usually require a size 16/100 or 18/110 needle size. If you’re using a rotary cutter, place the fabric on a cutting mat before starting. Mark out the hemline with a fabric pen – if possible, ask someone to do this for you while you’re wearing the garment. In both cases, the higher the number, the thicker the needle. Fortunately, you don’t need to think too much about it – set up your machine for polyester, and it will cope with most types of poly fabrics without further adjustments being needed. Small needles sizes – 60/8, 70/10, 75/11 – are best used with fine fabrics like organza and batists. Thread Size Government Size Textile Size Tensile Strength Needle Size Recommended Fabric Weight V-30 AA 30 4.5 lb. Quilting needles. Sometimes, needles are inserted where the eye of the needle is facing forwards, a… Using a thread that is too large for the needle can cause the thread to break. Position the new piece of fabric underneath the tear on the inside of the garment. As it cools, the thread will shrink and bunch the seams. Reduce the pressure on the sewing machine. #12 or 14 < 1.5 oz. Best Fabric For Tie-Dye (Top 9), How Do Self Healing Mats Work? AA - Use needle sizes 80 / 12 to 90 / 14. That sounds scary, but it simply means there are tiny “wings” just above the eye on either side of the needle that force the fibers of the fabric apart, allowing stitches to form more easily, leading to fewer or no skipped stitches. One of the key pieces of prep is to wash the fabric in cool water beforehand. sometimes the machine needs to be loosened, other machines prefer a tighter tension when working with polyester. By the time you come to sew the fabric for real, you should already have enough experience under your belt from your experiments to know what sewing technique will work best. If you’re working with polyester for the first time, you’ve undoubtedly going to have some questions about how to use it. Slip the lining back in place and pin. We recommend this thread for all but the heaviest pack fabrics and webbing. This removes any excess coatings or colorant that could interfere with your project. Thread your machine with an all-purpose polyester thread in a color that matches your fabric. Ball point needles . The best needles for cotton fabric are medium-sized needles like 80/12, 90/14. As a first step, remember this: new project, new needle! The size of a needle is calculated by its diameter, thus a 90 needle is 0.9mm in diameter. Size 33 / Tex 35 / Govt. If you’re not sure if you’ve set the machine correctly, test out a few stitches on some scraps before starting. PAIR THREAD WEIGHT TO NEEDLE SIZE. For both sizing systems, the lower the number the finer the needle and the higher the number the larger the needle. Medium needle sizes – 80/12, 90/14 – work well with quilting cottons, lightweight upholstery, denim, silk dupioni, and other similar weight fabrics. What Size Needle to Sew Polyester? Preparation is key. Before you begin to even consider threading a needle, wash the polyester item in cold water and dry on a low heat. 8-Cord - Use needle sizes 330 / 30 to 360 / 32 . If you’re working with 100% polyester, the most important thing to remember is to use a good quality polyester thread – a cotton thread will simply not match the stretch and durability of the fabric itself, and you’re likely to experience problems down the line. Regardless of the type of polyester fabric you’re using, read on for some useful little tips that will guarantee success. (80 is the European size, while 12 is the American needle numbering system.) We are often very limited by thread. Wash before use to remove any coloring or coating that’s on the fabric. Use ballpoint pins (their rounded tips will keep the fabric from severing) to pin the fabric along the seam allowance. A little bit of unraveling is more noticeable in thick topstitching threads than regular weight sewing thread, but there shouldn’t be a lot. This will ensure any coatings and colorings are removed before you start sewing. (The first number 80, 90 is the metric number, followed by 12, 14 the imperial number. A special polyester thread meant for jeans is to be used with the needle for sewing on jeans. Keep your seams sow by keeping to a low pressure. (Cutting Mat Uses & Guide). Cut the threads, and then trim away the excess of the new fabric underneath the tear. When picking your needle size, there’s a simple rule of thumb: the finer your fabric, the finer your needle should be (to avoid unsightly holes!) Experiment. I have quite a collection of sewing machine needles. Gutermann Mara 70 - Use a 90/14 needle. As a general rule of thumb, the upper tension will usually be around a 4. It is important to choose correct needle for your sewing machine depending on type of fabric you sew and insert i… https://t.co/4M0ZLXJkHl pic.twitter.com/yOUsuoROQd Match the size of the thread to your project fabric and/or the application. Get in touch with your local BERNINA store. When it comes to the recommended sewing machine setting, stick to a stitch length of 0.5 millimeters (0.020 in) to 1.5 millimeters (0.059 in) for the best results. Polys (especially silky ones) are slithery. Set the machine to a narrow zigzag stitch and adjust the stitch length to .5 millimeters. . How to Stretch Acrylic Sweater Easily. Use a hand slip-stitch to fix the lining permanently in position. Stitch using a small, very narrow zigzag – try to make the zig-zag so narrow, it’s almost a straight line. Fabric NeedleSize Very Lightweight 8 or 9 Lightweight 9, 10 or 11 Medium-weight 12 or 14 Heavyweight 14 or 16 Very Heavyweight 16 or 18 European American 60 8 65 9 70 10 75 11 80 12 90 14 100 16 110 18 . B - Use needle sizes 90 / 14 to 100/ 16. The purpose of the needle is to guide the thread through the fabric. From finest to thickest, European sizes range from 60 to 120, while American sizes range from 8 to 19. Polyester / cotton or silk threads should be used with a universal needle. 07 of 09 Sewing Tips for Chiffon and Sheer Lightweight Fabric If it is a woven fabric that is still soft and stretchy, then you must use a 70/10 sharp needle. The wrong needle will ruin them with the first stitch. V-46 B 45 7.1 lb. For thread, at the fabric store look for polyester thread labeled "jeans." These fabrics are stretchy and very soft. For visible topstitching on upholstery and denim, use a heavyweight topstitching or upholstery thread. V-69 E 70 10.6 lb. Yes, buy good quality thread….but what is that??? While this strategy works on a lot of materials, it’s likely to result in puckering if you try it on spandex. While sewing polyester by hand can be tricky to master, there’s some tricks of the trade that should see you through. Then match thread weight to the needle size. The smaller the numbers the finer the needle. Slowly and carefully start sewing about .5 inch away from the hemmed edge. First of all, it’s always recommended to use a zig-zag thread when hemming. Ball point needles have a more rounded tip than a universal needle which pushes the fabric fibres apart rather than cutting them. There are so many types of sewing machine needles, how do you know which one to use, and when??? Super tips from Deborah Cacciamani, BERNINA Educator, on selecting the best needle and thread combination for your sewing projects. Needles are sized in metric and imperial. Thread that can be used with this machine: 30 - 90 weight. Ball Point - Designed for knits, elastics and stretch fabrics. #14 or 16 < 3 oz. Sewing machine needles are not meant to be used for sewing over and over again, and this can cause skipped stitchesand uneven stitches. Points. The stretchy nature of spandex and polyester can make it a challenge to sew. Although it’s known for its durability, polyester can occasionally rip if it’s put under enough stress. While you’ll not be able to restore the garment to its original condition, repairing the torn edges will at least give you a garment that’s still functional. Set the machine to a wide zigzag stitch and sow several lines over the tear to ensure it holds. Too much pressure will pull the fabric as you sew it and result in puckering. I repeat – NOT all thread is created equal!!! They work well with quilting pieces of cotton, lightweight upholstery, denim, silk dupioni, and other fabrics with similar weight. If you’re sewing polyester, be careful to select the most appropriate needle. Make life easier for yourself by fixing the cut-out fabric pieces to tissue papers or computer paper before you start to sew. » Sewing Polyester by Hand or Sewing Machine (Helpful Guide), Does Acrylic Shrink? This thin needle has a very sharp point and is ideal to sew many layers of fabric together. Sewing Needle Sizes and their uses. Wherever possible, cotton should be sewn with cotton thread, and manmade fibers like polyester should be sewn with polyester thread. If you look at the chart below, start in the middle. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. You can make them more manageable by spraying them with starch before you start to sew (although remember to wash the garment again before wearing to remove the product build-up). What Does Acrylic Fabric Feel Like? Here are some basic rules of using the right needles and threads for your projects. Size 554 / Tex 600 / Govt. Even the most experienced sewer can experience the same problem, but fortunately, there’s a few things you can do to reduce the dreaded wrinkle. Size 69 / Tex 70 / Govt. Is Acrylic Itchy or Soft? Before you start cutting out pattern pieces, iron the fabric using a synthetic setting. Cut a piece of the purchased fabric to size. Polyester fabrics also tend to respond better to smaller needles- go for a larger needle, and you risk weakening the seam and causing large, unsightly holes in the fabric. Use a ballpoint needle in sizes 5-10 and a good quality polyester thread. Let’s look at some general guidelines: 60/8– For the most lightweight fabrics, like Organza, Chiffon, or Georgette. Size 92 / Tex 90 / Govt. It is heavier in weight and comes in the most common colors used for jeans-gold and blue-gray. Needles that can be used with this machine: Home sewing machine needles (size 65/9 - 100/16) The larger the number, the larger the needle. Hang vertically for 24 hours to allow the fabric to stretch out to its proper length before you start hemming. Using your hand, tug the spandex to find out which way it stretches (a 2-way stretch fabric will stretch horizontally, while a 4-way stretch fabric will stretch both horizontally and vertically). We’ll come to the other questions shortly, but in reply to the last one, it’s a yes…. DIY Molly’s Award-Winning Apron, Tips for Selecting the Correct Needle Type and Size for Your Project, BERNINA Stitch Regulator: Three Soles, Three Roles, Couching with BERNINA, Part 1: Couching Presser Feet, Kids Busy Book Series, Part 8: Title Page. Purchase a small piece of polyester fabric that’s as close a match to the color and weight of your torn garment as possible. Don’t be tempted to use any old needle. To make the task a lighter one, the following guide should provide some inspiration. It All Started with an Apron Contest . Lay the pieces on the cross-grain rather than lengthwise. When choosing a thread, it’s best to use one that matches the elasticity of the fabric you’re sewing as closely as possible. When you begin a new project, you should always switch your needle to a brand new one. You can also use universal needle of size 16- 18 as an alternative. Buy good quality thread, every time, for sewing that is FUN! In the European system, the needle’s size is represented as a percentage of a millimeter: for instance, a number 80 needle would have a diameter of 0.8 millimeters. For fleece and faux fur, use a 90/14 or an 80/12 needle. The appropriate fabric, thread and needle combinations are shown in the preceding table. For everyday medium weight projects you will need a Universal Needle in a size 80/12 or 90/14. The American sizing system is numbered from 8 to 18. Tip: All thread is NOT created equal. Wind the bobbin with polyester thread and insert the bobbin. #16 or 18 3 - 6 oz. The "right" thread size depends on the material you are sewing, seam strength requirements, the "look" that you want, and your sewing machine's capabilities. It may cause machine to malfunction. Size 15 / Tex 16 / Govt. & Sunbrella Which Thread or Needle Do I Use? For thread, we recommend either V-69, V-92, V-138 polyester thread and Heavy Tenara with a size #18 or #20 needle. Buy enough fabric to give you plenty of scraps to try out the various needle sizes, stitches, tensions, and so forth. There are, however, some techniques and considerations that work across the board. My favorite thread is Mettler; Gutermann and Molnyke are also very good. As the numbers decrease, the needles get finer. I just like to have on hand whatever I may need. Select size of needle based on fabric weight. Once you have chosen the general needle type and selected your thread, choose the correct needle size for the size and type of thread selected. For machine sewing, the needles recommended are 70/10-80/12 ballpoints, sharps, and stretch depending on the fabric structure and weight. How to Shrink an Acrylic Sweater Easily, Does Acrylic Stretch? Satin polyester can be slippery. If the torn garment is lined, take out the lining near the tear using a seam ripper, and push the lining away from the tear. The question of what tension to use for sewing polyester can be a tough one to answer, as there are so many variables involved. Fabric is most often damaged by a bent, blunt or burred needle. Excess pressure will make the machine pull the fabric as you sew it, resulting in puckering. Fabrics made from 100% polyester have a number of distinct advantages: as well as being stain-resistant, they can easily be enhanced with permanent pleats and patterns. Use that, along with this step by step process, for guaranteed success. Leave around .75 inches remaining around the stitching. Remove the pins. They are used with heavyweight threads such as upholstery and topstitching threads. Generally, it’s not advisable to sew natural fabrics with synthetic threads (and vice versa) as they require a different type of thread. The heavier your fabric, the sturdier your needle should be. Polyester is one of the most commonly used synthetics. Polyester is the most common choice for outdoor applications. 80/12 – suitable for medium weight fabrics e.g. Sizes generally range from 90/14 to 110/18, but the 100/16 is a good first choice. . The stable backing this creates will stop the fabric sliding around under the needle. If the needle is too small, it causes unnecessary wear and tear on your stitching threads. If the needle is too big, it will push apart the threads of the fabric and make a bigger hole that your stitching thread may not fill. Polyester works best with as fine a needle as possible—a size 8 “Sharp” or “Microtex” needle is one of the best to try. The European metric sizing system for sewing machine needles is numbered from 60 to 110. Size 46 / Tex 45 / Govt. We recommend this thread for heavy pack fabrics and webbing. Feeding the thread too quickly can generate enough friction and heat to make the thread stretch. Before sewing with polyester fabric, wash it in cold water and dry it on low to medium heat. Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. Available in sizes 8/60, 10/70, 11/75, 12/80, 14/90 and 16/100. Leather Needles Make sure you position the fabric so that it stretches around the body, rather than along its length. If the combination of the fabric, thread and needle is not correct, particularly when sewing heavy fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or break. Once the fabric has been washed and dried, use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter to cut out the pieces. Sharps - Woven fabric. This will ensure no excess colorants or coatings interfere with the sewing. Hopefully, you’ve picked up enough tips and tricks to make your next poly-project a breeze. Pair 50 wt thread with size 80/12 needle. It should be 1 inch bigger in both length and width than the tear. The second one corresponds to its American size, in an arbitrary scale. What better thread to use for polyester, then, than polyester thread? If you’re sewing polyester, be careful to select the most appropriate needle. Tip: Resist the urge to pull the material as you sew. 00 - Use needle sizes 70 / 10 to 80 / 12. As it’s a plastic compound, it can melt and fuse under high heats, making it the go-to material for producing non-woven fabrics like felt, as well as both woven and knit polyester fabrics. 70/10– Light weight polyester or Silk, like you would use on a light blouse. Wind the bobbin slowly, and keep the sewing to a slow, even pace. Given the vast number of different textures and weights polyester can come in, knowing the best sewing technique for it can be tricky: what works best for one type of polyester fabric could be ineffective on another. Remove the pins to finish. Remember the smaller the number of the needle size, the finer the needle so in this case, you want a 70/10, 65/9 or 60/8 size needle in your sewing machine. The finer your fabric weight, the lower the needle size to use. Lower the pressure before you start sewing for the best chances of success. If using Tenara ® or Sailrite ® Lifetime Thread (formerly Profilen ® ), sew your Sunbrella with a size #18 or #20 needle. While sewing polyester with a machine is the easiest method of working with polyester, if you haven’t got one, all’s not lost – although hand sewing may be more of a challenge, it’s still possible. While it doesn’t happen often, there are occasionally spools of bad thread. #18 or 20 6 - 10 oz. If you feel any of the advice could be of help to your fellow crafters, please feel free to share the post. A ballpoint needle will help, as will fiddling with the tensions of the machine. If it is a knit fabric, you must use a 70/10 ballpoint needle for these fabrics in order to eliminate any holes in them. Sewing Machine Needle Charts 22.115 Page1 Formoreinformationonsewingmachineneedles,seeGuideline6.125 Needle Fabric/Use Sizes Description Ball-point Knits 70/10– Iron the fabric on a low setting and pin the hem in place with ballpoint pins. Needle sizes are indicated by two numbers: 70/10, 80/12, 90/14… The first one is the European notation, which indicates the diameter of the needle shaft. Needle A fresh needle in the smallest size available is most effective with polyester. If you’re sewing by hand, it’s recommended to use needles in sizes 5-10. Insert a twin needle into the sewing machine and thread the needles. Needles can be inserted into your sewing machine different ways. If you’re using a poly-cotton blend, sewing should be relatively easy, although it’s recommended you stick to using a polyester thread over a cotton one. Thread-Needles-Fabric: Making It All Work Together. You’ll also need to adjust the foot pressure. Very disappointed. Set your sewing machine with a ballpoint needle, which is less likely to damage the fibers of the material than a regular needle. A jeans needle has a heavy-duty blade designed specifically to pierce extra-thick woven fabric. Never use thread of 20 weight or lower. It is helpful to remember that a 50 weight thread should be paired with a size 80/12 needle. For most fabrics, an all-purpose thread is good. The reason for matching like for like is simple: polyester thread is stronger than cotton, and over time, can weaken cotton’s fiber. Jo. Polyester Thread. Do You Need to Wash Polyester Before Sewing? Use a lighter weight polyester thread in sewing machines that struggle in heavy canvas. As too much pressure on the pressure foot can result in puckering, make any adjustments necessary before you start to sew. A finer, lightweight thread is required with these smaller needles, as the eye of the needle is smaller and cannot accommodate a heavier thread. Set the stitch setting to 3-3.5 stitch per length. Denim and canvas need a 16/100 needle. Polyester Thread Size - Polyester thread comes in eleven sizes or thicknesses that range from hair-thin with a 1.5 pound tensile strength to 1 millimeter thick with a 98 pound strength. Needle Size 26 - 16 Count Aida Fabric; Needle Size 28 - 18 Count Aida Fabric EMBROIDERY NEEDLE Also known as Sharps, these needles have sharp tips that pierce the fabric as you stitch, and larger eyes for accommodating floss and embroidery thread. The eye of the needle is sized for general sewing threads such as all-purpose polyester and 50-weight cotton. If you’re new to sewing with polyester (or new to sewing in general), bear in mind you’ll need to adapt your usual sewing style to meet its specific needs. cotton, polyester, linen If you’re sewing by hand, it’s recommended to use needles in sizes 5-10. Gutermann Mara 50 - Use with a 100/16 needle. For machine sewing, the needles recommended are 70/10-80/12 ballpoints, sharps, and stretch depending on the fabric structure and weight. This needle also has a slightly rounded ball point like the Blue Tip, but is a larger needle (size 14) with a special cobra-shaped head.
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